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Fashion History Mirrors Feminism: From Corset to Casual, A Visual Tour Through Time
Heck, about clothing in just about any century, but that is beside the point. In this day of unlimited information available, you would think facts would thrive and myths fall by the wayside, but in reality the opposite seems to occur quite frequently. Every single list having to do with the 19th century invariably includes some inaccurate factlet about corsets. As a history buff, reenactor, historical clothing enthusiast and seamstress, it drives me nuts.
So, I feel it my job — nay my duty to my forebears — to correct some of this myth with actual fact.
The ‘stout woman’ was one of the corsetiere’s favorite clients! After all, a thin women can be sold a corset, however, the change to her figure will not be very apparent (outside the world of tight-lacing).
Share on Facebook Tweet on Twitter In the last years women have demanded and gotten the right to vote, chosen when and if to have kids, entered the workforce, taken leadership roles, and are no longer dependent on fathers or husbands for money or property. The rapid change in fashion styles is a direct reflection of the shift in societal roles. Wikicommons We begin with the corset.
Wikicommons From then on, up until the 19th Century, corsets were circular and reached down to the hips for the illusions of a very curvaceous body. Corsets were often made of whale bones and steel caging for the ultimate squeeze effect. Difficulty to launder, women wore thin underdresses made of material like cotton underneath their corset to avoid rusting the steel. Wikicommons At the turn of the 20th century, doctors began to question the health of the corset—after all the tighter you had it the better, and you could only breathe out of the top of your lungs causing mucus to build up in the bottom portion of lungs.
Wikicommons The new century brought with it simplicity in dress, as less restrictions were placed on women and fashion history takes turns to reflect the increased freedom. During WWI, as women began to enter the workforce and took more active roles in society, and the corset begins to go out of style due to lack of functionality, women were no longer just sitting pretty.
And, shortly after, in , the 19th Amendment is passed granting women the right to vote. With this we enter the roaring 20s and the era of the flapper, symbolizing freedom and a carefree attitude. The little black dress becomes a symbol of modernism in its rejection of confinement, and individualism in its rejection to blending in with colorful masses, yet still feminine in its dignity.
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Now, a new body contouring surgery known as the corset body lift can surgically produce this sleeker waistline, and can be individually tailored for both women and men. This novel surgery not only treats the lower abdomen, as do abdominoplasty and lower body lift belt lipectomy , but also targets the often-neglected upper abdomen, thereby enhancing the entire waistline. Are You a Candidate? If you have a significant amount of loose skin below your breasts, above your belly button, and along your sides, you may be a good candidate for the corset procedure.
By removing this excess, the corset body lift can provide you with a completely flat abdomen and full-length waistline. As a result, you will feel more comfortable in your clothing and may even drop a few sizes!
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Corset Background The corset is an undergarment traditionally made of stiffened material laced tight to the body in order to slim a woman’s waist. Evidence shows that some type of waist-cinching garment was worn by Cretan women between and B. Women from that period wore a forerunner of the corset, called a body or stay, or a pair of stays. The rigid, bust-to-hip corset became popular in the sixteenth century and persisted in various guises up through the middle of the twentieth century.
It was considered beneficial to women’s health by some doctors and writers, while others considered the constricting garment a virtual torture.
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The “corset problem,” or the “corset question” as it was called in the press, was the phenomenon of tightly lacing corsets to constrict the waistline to about 16 inches and sometimes even as small as 13 inches; basically, the smaller the better.
I want modern corsetmakers to be exposed to and impacted by the beauty of the historical cuts, and methods, not merely copying the same modern styles popular in the larger community, or the same four patterns out of “Corsets and Crinolines”. Because to this long term goal, I am always on the hunt for new sources of historical inspiration.
Vincent, published in This rare book is listed in the collections of only a few libraries around the world, and is in the public domain. The book itself is quite small, paper covered and stapled, and only 40 pages long. Inside the book, there are 19 corset pattern drafts laid out in the text, as well as two additional patterns for abdominal and supporting belts, and a corset cover, which is very similar to the early type of brassiere.
These patterns vary in date; about half are dated post-WWI to early s, the remainder date to None of these patterns are in any other book currently on the market. The corset pattern drafts are as follows:
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Most Englishwomen did wear some sort of corset or other, and your dress will probably look better if you do, too. Even a longline bra, which this model rather resembles, would work. It’s interesting that in some ways it resembles a more modern garment, because it was touted as being healthful and nonconstricting by its maker. With the absence of soft chairs and with posture being of supreme importance, I can see the appeal of this sort of assistance!
Also, in an era of very low decolletage, most of us could have used what amounted to a push-up bra.
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Origins[ edit ] Catherine de’ Medici, c. A steel corset in the Stibbert Museum , Florence, Italy, is dated to the mid th century, and thought to be similar to the metal stays recorded as having been made by a corazzaio mastro master armour-maker for Eleanor of Toledo and delivered to her on 28 February Willett Cunnington and his wife Phillis also stated firmly that surviving “iron bodies,” when not medical garments, were usually “fanciful ‘reproductions"” with no proof of their having genuinely been worn.
The anthropologist Marianne Thesander concluded that because such bodices fit the fashionable silhouette of their alleged period, they were probably authentic, and served the same purpose as other corsets. Phelps of the American Orthopaedic Association recommended an aluminium corset coated with waterproof enamel for sufferers of Pott disease or curvature of the spine.
Since the 20th century, actual metal corsets have occasionally been made for contemporary wear, although such instances are rare. Cayne advertised a booklet describing her inch waistline and offered other services in the Illustrated Sporting and Dramatic News. The Mexican painter Frida Kahlo was a notable wearer of such medical corsets, following ongoing problems as a result of a serious road crash she experienced as a teenager.
Some museums, including the Museo Stibbert, and the Kyoto Costume Institute in Japan, present their metal bodices as fashionable late 16th-century garments.
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Corsetting the stout woman is not a subject for levity as this gimlet eyed matron suggests. Nevertheless, the Teutonic cherub in the ‘Ski’ advert quite seems to enjoy her substantial corsetry, whilst Spirella’s ‘s model “thinks of England” and appears resigned to the photographer’s attention. On the right, we have a picture that amply portrays the words of Mary Armstrong, chief corsetiere for Ambrose Wilson in the ‘s, “Let’s not romance about corsetry! That corselette is designed for the larger woman, but the drawing is of a size 10 model.
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However, the fatal dance between health and beauty was a reality for Washington women in the 19th century. Starting in the latter half of the century, the style began its descent and area newspapers began to debate the practice. An article in the Evening Star details what many still thought to be the good effects of a tightly laced corset: Scientists have found that a good deal of the blood stored uselessly in the abdominal veins is, by slight pressure, placed advantageously at the disposal of the muscles, brain and skin.
This explains how men, as well as women, instinctively employ some method of abdominal compression [during physical activity]. Luckily for District women and men, too, apparently! As the National Tribune reported , Frederick Treves lectured on the topic in There is a popular delusion to the effect that there is plenty of empty space inside the body, and into this space the displaced organs are pushed in tight lacing.